Dayton Street Apizza: A New Haven Local

The red pie with mozzarella at Dayton Street Apizza.

The red pie with mozzarella at Dayton Street Apizza.

Dayton Street Apizza lies just a few miles up Whalley Avenue from downtown New Haven, but it feels well off the beaten path. This restaurant is a true neighborhood place: an unpretentious takeout joint with just 14 seats, it is hardly a destination restaurant like New Haven’s Big Three, and most of its residents are Westville locals from just down the street.

We were surprised, then, that the New Haven Advocate said it had pies “to rival Wooster Street.” Reviewers from Roadfood.com were fans as well. As Chris Ayers and Amy Briesch put it,

Thin, chewy crust with fresh toppings arranged conservatively and baked to well-done perfection: this is the crux of good apizza, and Dayton Street follows the rules.

Hungry and expectant, we ventured to Dayton Street on a weeknight to see if these claims held up. Entering the restaurant’s cozy brick interior, we examined the menu, which was displayed above the main counter and takeout window and included options ranging from the pungent-sounding Cousin Artie (onions, garlic, and anchovies) to more typical specialties like Clams Casino, Margherita, and Hawaiian. (The restaurant also serves Italian specialties like pasta and subs.)

Unable to decide, we asked the woman at the counter what she would recommend. The white pie with chicken and broccoli, she told us, was one of their most popular pies, so we ordered one of those and a red pie with mozzarella.

A case of Foxon Park sodas completes the classic takeout joint interior.

A case of Foxon Park sodas completes the classic takeout joint interior.

Having ordered, we sat down and admired the surroundings. Dayton Street isn’t much of a full-service restaurant, but it has plenty of the neighborhood charm that comes with a true takeout joint. A large drink cooler was filled with a rainbow of Foxon Park sodas in flavors ranging from gassosa (Italian lemon-lime) to cherry to birch beer. A TV in the corner was playing Jeopardy, a clock on the wall was shaped like a pepperoni pizza, and jars of Bobo’s Pasta Sauce, homemade by the restaurant, were clustered on a shelf near the counter. Red, white, and green neon lights framed the large street-facing windows in front. As we waited for our pies, we selected a one-liter bottle of cream soda from the cooler. The woman behind the counter brought us plastic cups.

When the pizzas arrived, we dug in. Dayton Street pizzas are thin-crust, even by New Haven standards: thicker than the pies at BAR but thinner than heftier examples like those at Zuppardi’s.

Red pie with mozz at Dayton Street: not quite as tasty as it looks, but still decent.

Red pie with mozz at Dayton Street: not quite as tasty as it looks, but still decent.

The crust was perhaps our favorite aspect of the pizzas. Light and airy, it crackled when we bit in and had a pleasant floury flavor without much char. Unfortunately, the crust lacked the rustic character and flavor one finds at other New Haven establishments. After several bites, we all realized that it was pretty bland.

Overall, we found the pizzas satisfying but somewhat boring. The cheese on the red pie with mozzarella was standard supermarket quality and the tomato flavor was minimal, and though the pie was delicious and savory when it first emerged from the oven, as it cooled it became much less appetizing.

Chicken and broccoli pie.

Chicken and broccoli pie.

The chicken and broccoli pie was worse. Topped with tiny chunks of fried chicken cutlet and fresh broccoli florets, it was light on flavor. Perhaps it was just our entirely subjective taste preferences at work, but we found that we weren’t eager to have seconds.

This is not to say that Dayton Street pies are bad: they’re fine, and are in fact a strong example of very good takeout pizza. These pies would walk all over New Haven eateries like Yorkside Pizza and Alpha Delta Pizza, but when we stacked them against New Haven’s finest, they didn’t quite seem able to compete. Perhaps we just ate there on an off night, and the more favorable reviews are justified. But any one of the Big Three, as well as neighborhood places like Zuppardi’s and Roseland, are superior in our book.

With this in mind, we give Dayton Street Apizza one star on our five-star scale. The pizza is decent, but if you’re looking for the best New Haven pizza we would recommend going elsewhere.

Dayton Street Apizza
60 Dayton St
New Haven, CT 06515
(203) 389-2454
If you enjoyed this NHPP review, feel free to share it:

add to del.icio.us : Add to Blinkslist : add to furl : Digg it : add to ma.gnolia : Stumble It! : add to simpy : seed the vine : : : TailRank : post to facebook

Dayton Street Apizza on Urbanspoon

Advertisements

2 Comments

Filed under Pizza Reviews

2 responses to “Dayton Street Apizza: A New Haven Local

  1. I’m flattered that you quoted our review in your article — thank you so much! But a chicken & broccoli pizza? No wonder you were disappointed. Dayton Street uses fresh clams for their clam pie, and their sausage is locally made. Hopefully you’ll indulge with one (or both) of these on your next trip, and I think you’ll see stars: at least 4 of them.

  2. dfromson

    Thanks for the feedback, Chris. You’re probably right — had we known to order clam or sausage, things might have come out differently. However, we weren’t wowed by the red pie with mozzarella, so I can’t imagine that Dayton Street would have registered more than two stars even if we had loved another specialty pie. At BAR, for example, we loved the mashed potato and bacon combo and found the red pie to be stronger than at Dayton, and BAR has a three-star rank.

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s